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| Confluence of the White and South Fork |
Summer 2024 condition updates:
From renters who took off around 7/22: We floated the south fork of the flathead from the confluence to meadow creek gorge. It was flowing at 1000cfs. Even at these flows there were quite a few sections that required some portage due to the sections being ultra shallow. There were no log jams at that time that required completely getting out of the river. The weather was blistering hot and dry. The fishing was very active throughout the day. When fishing mid day, holes that were in shade still had action.
From renters who took off around 7/10:Sounds like there is definitely some wood on Young's, which is pretty boney anyway at this point. Sweeper near Gordon creek as well, but it sounds like there's a line around it.
Post from renter who got off water on 6/22:
There was only one log across the river. Probably about 2-3 miles from the Danaher/Youngs confluence. Easy to navigate - we just got out in 2 feet of water and lifted the boats over.
The hike in via Lodgepole was brutal. Probably 300+ blow down trees that added a lot of time and energy to the hike.
The exit sign at the end or start of the gorge has shrubs growing around it and the paint is faded.
So far with historically low snow pack in the Bob this season is shaping up to be a shorter, earlier float season with lots of packrafters on the water by the 3rd week of June and then slowing down after the 3rd week in July.
More updates coming soon as clearer picture of snowpack is available and renters start coming back with reports.
A Word on Flows
Twin Creek Gauge is the best gauge for understanding where things are at in terms of flows. We have renters run the length of the South Fork of the Flathead down to the low 400 CFS although you do have to get out on a few more gravel bars it is doable and still worthwhile at this level. Up to about 5000 CFS is still doable for most novices (although the Young's Gorge section before the confluence can get interesting above even 3000 CFS). Above 5000 CFS you're looking at higher flows and a much faster trip, often dirtier water with the potential for floating logs or hazards that may be hard to see. Most trips above 10,000 CFS are pretty wild and you definitely want to have some experienced paddlers in your group.
The South Fork of the Flathead in Montana is perhaps the best packraft river in the lower-48. There are 3 main reasons for
this as I see it:
1.
It is very scenic. Especially toward the end of the trip, going into Meadow Creek Gorge. The deep green water
and the canyons make for some great pictures.
2.
It is also very remote. It is located in one of the largest
wilderness areas in the lower-48. For
much of the trip you are 30 miles from the nearest road. So you can really get away from it all!
3.
The fishing is good. Not as good as the first time I fished it 10+ years ago, in my pre-packraft days, but still good. It is also one of the only places you can
legally target bull trout in Montana and maybe the Northwest. Please check current regulations on this. Keep in mind that is only on the South Fork
and not any tributaries, you also can’t keep them and technically you are
supposed to get a free bull trout targeting “stamp” on your license (last time I checked anyway).
A number of people have published magazine articles on packrafting the South Fork of the Flathead. Unfortunately most of those articles are more on the inspiring side and less on the practical, which is what this article sets out to do. Full transparency: I own a packraft rental company,
Backcountry Packraft Rentals, so my business benefits greatly from the popularity of this river. The river will almost certainly become permitted in the next 5 years, but if packrafters continue to act as low impact backpackers, I am hopeful the permitting system will favor packrafters.
This summary might be more than you want to know, but hopefully it will be informative if you are actually planning on doing the trip. If you have specific questions please feel free to contact me.
I have done it three times now and have had numerous customers do it and listened to their feedback on different routes. The first and third times I did it via Young’s Creek
and the second time via the White River.
The first and third time we entered the Bob (Bob Marshall Wilderness) via the
Young’s Creek Pass off of Lodgepole Trail Head(just north of Ovando, MT) and the
second we started from Bench Mark (West of Augusta, MT) and went in on the
South Fork of the Sun then up and over White River Pass. The White River trip was supposed to involve
floating the White River but the water was so low (July 20th on a
dry year) that we ended up just hiking
to the confluence with the Flathead.
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| Getting ready to float in 2014 |
I learned a lot on all three trips and from talking to customers about the area and about
packrafting. Here are a few tips
specifically for this trip:
- 1.
I have done all my trips in July and only been
rained on for one-half day. None of
our trips were bad for mosquitoes and we have only seen one bear (black) in all
of those days out, but prepare for all these things! Rain jacket, bear spray and bug spray! Time of year matters for water levels, the
later you go the more you’ll have to portage.
Early-mid July is probably best for flows, mid-late July is best for fishing with a lower risk of fires. Fires are a major consideration...they can happen at any time, but are likely at the end of July and throughout August- smokey air and trail closures being the main problems resulting from them.
- 2.
If you want to have a more relaxing trip, do one
long day of hiking your first day and then float the rest of the trip (its
16-18 miles of hiking over Young’s Creek Pass to the first float-able stretches
of Young’s Creek). If you go in over Young’s Creek Pass start as early as
possible because it gets hot on the south side of the pass and there isn’t
water until you get over the top. I've heard there was some significant blow down on the pass in 2019 and I'm not sure how much of it got cleared on the trail by the end of the season. Look
for huckberries on the way down. The
White River trip was prettier but demoralizing because we floated (on the Sun River) and then
hiked almost two days and then floated two more. You can also get to Young's creek via Pyramid Pass, but from a hiking perspective it is supposed to be harder.
- 3.
The gorge section of Young’s Creek can be a bit
overwhelming if you’ve never packrafted before.
If the water is low, it isn’t too high consequence (meaning there aren’t
any hydros that will kill you) but there are lots of rocks and you will probably
scrape your boat a lot and possibly tip (which would be a bummer because you’d
have several days of wet gear). All that
said, my friends and I did it and made it through having minimal prior packraft
experience. Not sure how it would be in
high water though. You can easily hike
around it on the trail if it is intimidating.
- 4.
The first floatable stretch on Young’s and the
first few miles of the South Fork of the Flathead often have log jams. Be prepared to portage….but that is one plus
of a packraft – easy portages (attach your packraft with the backpack straps up
and you can just walk with the raft on your back and carry your rod and
paddle).
- 5.
The ranger station at Big Prairie is worth the
stop. Drink some tang and have an Oreo. Talk to the rangers and get a tour. You’re pretty much walking into a small 1870s
settlement due to the restrictions on technology in wilderness areas. You can also see a plane wreck just inside
the fence which is pretty cool. Big
Prairie is located at the first pack-bridge that goes over the South Fork. Be nice and appreciative to the rangers and other forest service workers.
- 6.
Sweet side-trips that we have done include: Mud
Lake Lookout and Salmon Lake. On the third trip we went up to Haystack mountain and from it you can see the famed Chinese Wall. It is about a 20 mile round trip so start early and bring lots of water. It is worth the view! I’ve heard
of people doing the whole South Fork trip in 4 days, but I would recommend at least 6
because you won’t feel rushed.
- 7. The following is from a renter in 2019 regarding a new rapid near the White River confluence: "T
here is a new log jam around mile 84 near Scarface Creek (where the river made a new channel) that we portaged around."
It's important to keep in mind that the river changes annually and there may be log jams and new rapids in places where there weren't before.
- 8.
There is one rapid that has tipped at least one
person in our group every year on the last day(although I've heard mixed reports about it washing out since then).
It is hard to see coming up but if you pay attention to the elevation
drop of the river, you can see it. If
you don’t see til you’re almost there you can probably skirt it to the right if
you paddle hard. Otherwise, lean forward
and paddle hard through the rapid. It
isn’t a bone crusher, but you might lose your sunglasses and anything else that
isn’t attached. There's a nice recovery pool right after so your raft won't wash down stream ahead of you.
- 9.
The last day of the trip you will see a sign
that says something like “take-out ¼ mile”.
Get on the “river right” at this point.
There will be another sign shortly, but the river increases in speed and
splashy rapids right at the take-out point so you might miss it if you aren’t
ready. If you do miss it….once again
thank God you are a packrafter, because you can easily get out of the pool
after the take-out and climb over the small rocky embankment with your packraft
in hand or on your back. If you don't get out here, you need to have a helmet and be ready for class VI rapids.
- 10.
You will hike out 3 miles from the take-out to the
Meadow Creek Trail Head parking lot. From Meadow Creek it is an hour at least, on a dusty road back to Hungry Horse, MT (keep
your eyes peeled for huckleberries on the way).
There is no restaurant in Hungry Horse that has all three of the magic
trifecta (burgers, fries and shakes), but you can mix and match with the
Huckleberry Patch and the Elk Horn Grill.
Or you can go East to Coram and the Glacier Grill. You will be hungry at this point!
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| Day 3 log jam portage |
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| From Big Prairie |
- 11.
Regarding shuttling- after publishing this blog, I found out that there is indeed a shuttle service that there are a couple shuttle services that run vehicles around the Bob. Ovando River Shuttle- Ginger and Tony deRonnebeck: Home 406-793-2568, Cell 406-210-2795 and Four Rivers Shuttle and Boat Rental, can shuttle your vehicle pretty much anywhere around the Bob. Contact me directly if you are looking for a shuttle on the East side as I have some contacts.
- 12. Don't forget forest rangers are the law back there and they (one in particular) follow it to the letter! On a different trip into the Bob we had to turn around and go back because my friend's fishing license had disappeared out of his pack. The ranger wouldn't budge, or call in to verify his license. I also had 3 renters get fined $80/person in the Bob because they didn't have life jackets in their boats.
- 13. Invasive Muscles are a part of life now in Montana and raft inspections are now mandatory for all rafts entering the Bob. You'll need to have your raft inspected and if possible carry some proof of that (either a piece of paper or on your phone). Please check out the link here for check station locations. (updated 2023)
- 14. Bears- customers ask fairly frequently about bears and how to prepare for them....I honestly haven't heard of anyone encountering a grizzly on the main trail or on the river. I've seen one Black bear and have had a handful of customers report black bear sightings on the river. Definitely bring bear spray and hang your food, but the overall concentration of bears is pretty low in that area during the summer.
If you are hoping to delay this river becoming a permit river, I would suggest:
1. Having your fires below the high water mark.
2. Picking up other people's trash if you see it.
3. Not cutting other boats off or paddling through fishing holes that people are fishing
4. Fly fishing instead of spin fishing
5. Pulling your barbs down
6. Limiting how many holes you fish
7. Fishing more for bull trout, because you won't catch as many cut-throats and the ones you catch will be bigger
8. Pulling your fish in quickly and taking the hook out in the water
It might be inevitable that it will be a permitted river just because of the sheer number of vessels packrafting brings but this will slow it.
If you do need a rental, I am happy to accommodate that need! Please check out my website:
https://www.backcountrypackrafts.com/
